Task: Create Prefect Model Trees - Step 2

I think the pictures speak for themselves. After the paint had dried, I began the process of adding the foliage to the trees. First I purchased 3 large Rubbermaid bins. In one bin, I emptied the 32oz shaker of Scenic Express's Spring Green colored Course foliage. As the pictures below show, I started by dipping the tree into a 50:50 mixture of white glue and water. Then I placed the tree into the bin, then I covered it completely with the foliage material -- followed by picking it up and shaking it lightly and then repeating this several more times while turning the tree, until I was satisfied with the results. Next I took the tree back out to the garage to dry. Once hung back on the line with clothes pins, I applied a heavy layer of Aqua Net superhold hair spray. I repeated these steps adding in the other two bins, one filled with Scenic Express's Hazy Green colored Course foliage and the other with Scenic Express's Forest Green colored Course foliage. My end goal is to have mostly "lighter" colored trees on the layout with some dark trees mixed in. I want it to feel Spring-timey. I allowed them all to dry for 24 hours before moving on to Step 3.

Task: Create Prefect Model Trees - Step 1

After separating out the "weed" trees and boiling them for 30 minutes in a large 15.5 quart pot, I hung each tree up using clothes pins to dry. On the ones that needed some help to straighten out, I attached extras clothes pins to help weigh them down. I let them dry for about 12 hours out in the garage in warm weather (I will extend that time to 24 hours in the future). Next I spray painted them all with a dark brown colored rust primer spray paint from Rust-oleum. Then I misted them all with an auto primer grey spray paint. I let them all dry for a few hours before moving on to Step 2.

Task: Continue Looking for the Perfect Tree - Success

After some additional research and re-reading my Model Railroader magazines, I thought I would tree making my own "Perfect Tree." I purchased Scenic Express's "SuperTrees" ( http://www.sceneryexpress.com/departments.asp?dept=1006 ) starter kit product. After all the good reviews I had read about them, I was sure I had finally found the model trees I sought. Originally I had hoped to just purchase completed model trees to allow me to focus on finishing the entire layout somewhat sooner, but no luck -- everything pointed to the fact that I would have to make them myself using this product if I wanted really good looking trees. And honestly the main item that jumps out at you, next to perhaps the track work, tends to be the trees.

I purchased the kit from Walthers.com for a good price - around 21 dollars for the starter kit (contained enough stuff to make about 10 trees). The kit arrived promptly and upon opening it I felt I was on the right track. The kit comes with a dried weed of some sort. I think their from Sweden or something. I had found online from a few modeler's websites that you need to boil them for around 30 minutes to soften the stem and then hang them upside to dry -- all with the end goal of a straight "trunk."

Task: Find the Perfect Tree - Failure

The effort to find a realistic model tree for our layout has been very frustrating until recently. First let me start by saying -- all claims of realism by various model tree makers are grossly over blown and not to believed. Period Dot.

I began with several purchases from various different model tree makers. First up was JTTtree ( http://www.miniaturetree.com/ ). I purchased their new realistic tree line called, "Super Scenic" trees. 45 dollars later they arrived in the mail. Once I opened it, it was very clear this was money not spend wisely. The trees were so fake looking it was sad. And the pictures online looked nothing like the product I was holding -- online it was a model tree full of foliage, but in real life it was so sparsely flocked and foliaged you could barely see any green on it. I called the people at JTTtree to inquire about a refund -- and I was told - "So Sorry we no give refund." I had purchased them using Paypal.com. Let me just say, do not ever count on Paypal to help with this type of issue. Paypal.com immediately closed my dispute claim despite the fact I had mailed the trees back to JTTtree. So a 45 dollar lesson was taught to me. Forget Paypal and forget MRC's JTTtree company (which is very disappointing because I truly like MRC products -- my DCC system is MRC). Later, I went ordered from Horizon Hobby online without realizing it, the JTTtree --highly expensive-- "Professional" product line of trees. A small two-pack of trees costs 20 dollars -- and they looked pretty good; but at that point I wouldn't use their products if it was the only item on the market.

Second lesson was the purchase of an inexpensive Woodland Scenic's deciduous plastic 20-pack tree kit. I followed the easy to follow instructions, bending the plastic branches this way and that, using their Hobby Tac glue product and then dipping the tree trunks into their foliage cluster product. All I can say is, if you want really cheap trees and dont mind cheap looking results - these are for you. But I hated the end result instantly and into the trash they all went. 25 dollars for lesson #2. I have also looked into the Woodland Scenic "Premium" line of model trees, and although I think they look okay, probably acceptable for our layout, they costs way to much money for what you get ultimately. 2 trees for 15 dollars, at only an acceptable level, is not good enough to me.

Third lesson came via purchase of Scenic Express's ( http://www.sceneryexpress.com/departments.asp?dept=1002 ) ready made trees. I purchased two different types of trees for review -- a Birch tree 2-pack and a Oak tree 2-pack. Let me start by saying that I very much think Scenic Express is a great company with great products; however, for me, their ready made trees are not up to par. Close but no cigar. So I mailed them back and instantly received a 30 dollar refund. So a free lesson finally. Thank you Scenic Express.

Fourth lesson came via a 50 dollar direct purchase of ready made trees from China off of Ebay. They were shipped directly from China and only took a week or so to arrive. They are not bad. The model tree's trunk is very nicely done with some sort of dyed sawdust crust that looks a lot like real bark. However the foliage clusters used by them are some sort of alien whacked-out, glow-in-the-dark green color. I will post a picture at some point. But trust me, they looked just plain weird. Which is too bad, because 50 dollars got me around 100 trees.

170 dollars later -- only 30 of it refunded -- I discovered there was a lot to be desired in the claims of "realistic" model trees for model railroading layout. I continued the hunt.

Task: Build a Mountian

I began the process of building the one mountain on the layout that will have tunnels. I like tunnels but did not want long stretches of the layout beneath mountains because to me its all about the trains. I want to see trains, not hills and mountains. So this mountain is compressed and thats fine. It provides the sense of tunnel action without hiding trains from view for extended running.

After setting in the homemade modern concrete segment bridge into the still wet ground goop, I began constructing the mountain. Its largely cardboard framed with plaster impregnated paper towels over top. I used wide masking tape to develop the curves of the mountain. The tunnel portals and retaining walls were attached and then the rock molded plaster castings. Once I was satisfied with it, I began covering it all with the ground goop.

Lots of small details remain, as I need to work the inside of the tunnels so that nothing layout-looking is seen. I will use black construction paper to create the tunnel once I get all the wiring completed.

Task: Create Rocks

I began the process for the 100 or so rocks that are going to be needed for the layout. I started with the Woodland Scenics product called Lightweight Hydrocal. Its a really high quality plaster product that sets quickly and allows for fine details in the final rock casting. Using three separate rubber rock molds, also by Woodland Scenics, I poured the mixed Hydrocal in to the "wetted" molds. Wetted means water with liquid dish soap mixed in (in this case in a spray bottle) that allows the completed rock to be lifted out of the rubber mold.

Once the Hydrocal was completely dried (think 4 or so hours), I began the painting process. I first mixed 16 parts water with 1 part Woodland Scenic Burnt Umber and Yellow Orchid paint. And 32 parts with 1 part Woodland Scenic Black paint (for the final wash). Using cheap foam brushes I dabbed the rocks with both colors in different spots. Then I coated the whole rock with a 16 parts to 1 part Woodland Scenic's Slate Rock paint. Once it sat for about 30 mins, I washed the rocks with the highly diluted black paint, really soaking the cracks and crevices (I use an empty Windex spray bottle for this washing).

I allowed these to dry over-night then using white acrylic paint, I used the modeling technique called dry rubbing, to bring out the edges of the rocks. I was satisfied with the finally results. The last step will be to seal each painted rock in 50-50 white glue.

Task: Begin Terrain Foundation Layer

I began some of the terrain. Using bunched up newspaper to create the basic shape and then masking tape to hold it in place. Next using Plaster with water added, mixed in a small litter pan until it was the right goop, I dipped in Bounty papertowel sections and then layed them over the newspaper and track risers. After about 30-45 mins the papertowels harden nicely and the foundation layer of the terrain for future scenic touches is completed. Prior to laying the plaster-dipped papertowels, I elevated the track sections in the area with wood blocks in order to provide room for maneuvering the papertowels around.

Eventually the papertowel terrain base will be covered by the textured ground layer. This ground layer will be a "goop"created by mixing 1 cup Celluclay, 1 cup house flat brown latex paint, 1/3 cup white glue, 1 cup Vermiculite, 1 cap of liquid concentrate Lysol, and then water until is like a peanut butter consistency. This will then be applied with a small trowel to a depth of about 1/4 to 1/2 inch. Once this dries, then scenic grass, underbrush, trees and other stuff will be applied.

Woodland Scenics sells rolls of pre-plastered cloth for around 10 bucks a roll. My method is a much cheaper, and just as effective method of applying a hard-shell base.

Task: Get Started Again!

Ok, after taking the summer off from train building partly due to lack of funds to buy the expensive risers, but mostly due to doing things with our girls, I have started up again.

I installed four more sets of risers and worked on getting any kinks out of the tracks (complicated by the incline and decline of the layout) - ensuring the trains run smooth with no derailments.

Task: Finish Coal Loading Facility

Here is the almost finished Clark Coal Mining coal loading facility. The model is lacquered and awaiting final weather dusting. I placed some of the detail items that will accompany it on the layout. Also displayed is the company's MP-15DC switcher locomotive, an Atlas Gold with QSI sound model.

Once I place it in its final position on the layout, I plan on lighting the main structure from within and also spread around coal. I also have an HO scale chain link fence to install, as well as jersey concrete barriers and two port-o-johns.

Task: Complete Coal Loading Facility

I began the final stages of the only industry I plan for the layout - a Coal Loading Facility. This model here is part of 3 total that I have built. These are all made by Walthers Inc. This one, a coal loading building that can load 3 cars at a time is undergoing a rust and grime wash. I had washed the roof with a dark gray mix a few weeks ago after spraying the entire building with an airbrush mix of gray and tan. The metal supports for the coal loading area I airbrushed a black and grey mix diluted with rubbing alcohol - I like the texture it provides with the cheaper acrylic paints from Apple Barrel and Folk Art (sold at Walmart for less than a buck).

As you can see in the photo, I am applying Raw Sienna acrylic paint from Folk Art with car window washer fluid. I am trying to portray the rusting that is common with aged Aluminun/Metal buildings of this style. After the rust, I will wash it with my grime/black wash. I will then install the window glass - the plastic window glass is modeled with framing and for that I will use a fine tipped black Sharpie maker. After the that I will seal the model in matte acrylic lacquer then I will dust it some with weathering chalks. I will then install the stairs and doors. Lastly, I have printed "Clark Coal Mining" signs and mounted them on 3x5 card stock. I will glue these and then dust them some.

I will post more pictures of this structure once completed.

Task: Wood chip car completion

So while I await funding issues to clear up for the additional elevation riser sets, I completed a new piece of rolling stock I purchased recently. Its a CSX Wood Chip hopper. These cars are used to transport wood chips from various lumber related industries to paper-related industries that use pulpwood (e.g. toilet paper, paper towels and printer/copier paper).

The car is a "gold line" car from Walthers, meaning it comes with prototypical couplers and metal wheels, and nice details already installed - like the hand brake used for spotting the car on sidings for example. I added a little extra weight to the car's empty hopper prior to installing a cardboard filler into it. I did this to ensure the center of gravity was as low as possible to prevent "wiggling" when it is moving. I used real wood saw dust left over from the benchwork creation as wood chips. I glued it using a watered down mix of white glue. 24 hours later - the wood chips are dried and hard, I weathered the car with a few washes of Raw Sienna acrylic paint mixed with car window washer fluid. Then I applied a black wash and finally a coat of Dull Cote lacquer. Next step will be to apply a little weathering chalk dust to it once the lacquer dries.

Task: Elevate tracks using Woodland Scenics foam system

I began probably the hardest part of the layout -- elevation.

However, Woodland Scenics' foam riser and incline foam system makes the process of elevating the tracks much simpler. The downside is the cost. At around $15 per set, and our layout needing probably around 10 sets -- that's big bucks.

I am using the 2% grade set. Its cut so smoothly that it rises from 0" to 4" in 16 running feet at a 2% incline. In one spot, I may have to use a 3% incline set, taking only 12 running feet to go from 0" to 4".

At first I tired to use 1/2" rigid foam board and wood cut to varying sizes to replicate Woodland's system; but, it was a huge failure -- trains derailed, track did not smoothly rise, etc. No wonder Woodland Scenics charges so much. But I want smooth running trains - so we will have to bite the bullet and buy their foam systems.

Lastly, hardboard fascia installation continues. I will modify the already installed pieces as necessary after the elevation of the terrain is completed. The fascia serves several important purposes; it is to prevent curious fingers from playing with track and ground scene, it helps prevent trains crashing to the floor below during an accident, and it provides a smooth eye transition visual. But that being said, it also needs to be as unobtrusive to the eye as possible.

Task: Work kinks out of track plan

With completion of the rigid foam board top, it was time to work the kinks out of the notional track plan. This is critical prior to the construction of the elevated terrain to support bridge overpassing and smooth operations into and out of corners.

Some of the rolling stock and engines, especially the larger cars and the EMD SD80 need very smooth corners. Also it helps to ensure couplers have free movement in their pockets as they need to give their max sway in the corners. I had one gondola that I had accidentally super glued the coupler along with the pocket cover. It derailed in the corner and I discovered that was the issue upon examination of the problem.

Task: Instal hardboard fascia with DCC system handheld holder and plugin

I began the installation of the hardboard fascia with the first panel being the one with the DCC system hand-held jack. I used 1/8" tempered hardboard cut so that 1 1/2" is below the bench work and the top part roughly follows the planned terrain pattern.

Once it is all installed and the seams are filled with vinyl spackle and sanded, I will paint the entire fascia with Valspar eggshell latex paint in a dark green color.

Task: Finish backdrop "Sky" and begin on surface

I applied the 2nd coat of "sky" paint after applying small amounts of vinyl spackle to a few small areas that weren't really smooth the way I wanted and then letting it dry and then sanded.

After that was finished, I began on the surface top of the bench work. Using 3/4" rigid foam board I covered the bench work. I used Woodland Scenics' foam tack glue to attach the pieces to the wood. I place heavy objects on the foam board to ensure good cohesion. I simply used a razor-knife to cut the foam as needed.

Task: Paint the backdrop "sky"

The backdrop was painted using a mixture of 3 colors from Valspar Flat Latex paints, "Breezy, Icecap, and Blue Eyes." I couldnt find the color I really liked so we picked 3 shades we sort of liked and mixed them together. The backdrop was painted with a roller. 2 coats were applied 4 hours apart.

Task: Complete backdrop and seal it with primer

The door skins plywood had grain that required a sealer/primer coat or 2. Also the wood filler was sanded then covered with vinyl spackle. I sanded the vinyl spackle and it provided a smooth cover over the seems from the sheets joined together. Kilz primer was used and its tinted white. 2 coats were applied with a roller. Allowing 3 hours to dry between coats. I had also masked off the wall to make sure no primer or the sky color in the next step got on the walls.

Task: Construct backdrop and benchwork framing

Prior to building the backdrop and the bench work frame, we spread clear plastic covering over the carpet and taped it down with masking tape. Once this was completed, I began to assemble the back drop. Using 1/8" door skins in 36"x80" size, counter-sunking them to 4" wide boards. They are placed 44" off the floor, as the benchwork frame is at 43" with room for the 3/4" rigid foam board on top. All the areas against the backdrop will be raised terrain.

Task: Prepare the room

With all the furniture out of the room, next came preparing the room for construction and cleaning it up. We had purchased a very nice CSX tapestry from the CSX company store online. I hung it up using 3 carpet tack strips, which I first painted a dark gray to ensure the glare of the nails did not show through.

Task: Complete Coal Car build and load

I received a couple more of my favorite coal hoppers in the mail today. The 3-bay 100 Ton Hopper is a great car for my coal operations. I have over 15 of these models from Bowser. I have a few from other model makers, like Bev-bel, Athearn and Concor, but Bowser is by far my favorite. I follow the included instructions for construction. I throw away the plastic inserts for the inside of the hopper wells. I only add the 2 weight plates included, but I then add 8 pennies -- 2 in each bottom corner with adhesive caulk.

I then cut the included cardboard insert for the box to fit down inside the car with it being slightly wider on the sides so it bows up and holds firm. I insert it and push it down about a 1/4 inch. I then use Woodland Scenics Lump Coal to create the coal load, by pouring in it until the car is full and then I set the coal using a 50/50 mix of white glue and water. The pictures shows the coal load completely wet as I really pour the glue on. I really enjoy the way this looks when dried, especially compared to mostly cheap unrealistic looking plastic coal loads available on the market. To me, my method looks the most authentic.

The test of the load comes 24 hours later, when I flip the car over and to check to see if any coal comes off. Normally only 1 or 2 tiny pieces do. I then install the included McHenry KS Couplers and the trucks -- I replace the stock plastic wheels with 36" metal wheels from Proto 2000 or Intermountain.

I have yet to weather my large fleet of coal hoppers. I will probably just wash them with windwasher fluid mixed with a mix of artists tube water colors. Probably a blend of black, white and raw sierra. Then dullcote the car. I will finish up with dusting powders.

Task: Check out new Atlas Gold Series loco

I purchased my first Atlas Gold Series locomotive with QSI sound. And I have to say its by far the best sounding engine I've ever heard. I will post more when I complete the build and detail/weather it. The engine is a CSX flagged, GE Dash 8-40CW, road # 7681.

Did I mention how great it sounds? I now own engines with DCC/Sound decoders from all the main manufacturers except Digitrax. Ranking the ones I own would be: 1) QSI 2) BLI's new Paragon2 3) ESU LokSound 4) SoundTraxx and 5) MRC Sound.

QSI and BLI's Paragon 2 sounds easily out pace the others with QSI edging out BLI for the top spot. The QSI is so good that down the road--money allowing--I will replace 3, 4 and 5 ranked sounds with QSI sound boards.

Also arriving in the mail was my new MRC 8 Amp DCC Booster. I think this booster will provide all the power I need to run my 13 DCC engines (8 of which have sound) and accessories.

Task: Test fit the layout plan

I took some time out and did a dry run of the layout plan to double check my thoughts and ensure the space I've allocated will indeed work. Essentially the plan involves two complete and separate loop runs in a large inverted U shape. The right side of the upside down U will be 11 1/2 feet out, the back part 13 feet long and the left side will be 7 1/2 feet out. The width on the right side will allow for nice wide turns with 33" curves and the left side will be more compressed with 22" curves.

In the center of the wide turns will be the coal mine/loading operation and on the left side in the more narrow turns will be the siding for the Tropicana train and a mock-up of an orange grove.

The 13" feet run along the wall will allow for nice long runs of trains side by side. There will be a connecting turnout area to allow the two separate loop runs to crossover if needed or desired.

I am enjoying the decision to go with Kato's outstanding HO Unitrack.

Task: Replace plastic wheels with metal wheels

I began the process of replacing all of my plastic wheels with metal wheels. I have purchased 33" and 36" metal wheel sets from several different vendors, to include Kadee, Intermountain, and Life-like Proto, as I found good deals on Ebay. I started with my intermodal car fleet.

I will continue the task as I weather and seal the various rolling stock I have. Overall I really like the way metal wheels sound on the rails over the sound plastic wheels and metal wheels go along way in keeping your track cleaner longer. Also, with rolling stock the lower the weight of the car, the lower it's center of gravity - and that provides for smoother rolling with a lot less wobble. Especially important in double stacks and Hi-Cube cars. I am using 33"s on my intermodal fleet and 36"s on all the rest.

Task: Tag Conrail #4133 as a NS SD70MAC

NS gained half of Conrail's 70MACs and the other half went to CSX when Conrail ended operations for the most part in late 1998. So the last detail I completed on my former Conrail 70MAC was adding the black square with white NS beneath the #4133 to show this loco is now operated by NS.

In Microsoft Powerpoint, I created a small graphic that resembled it and printed two out. I attached it will some kid's stick glue then sealed it with a dab of acrylic sealer. Looks good enough.

Interesting that Conrail was primarily formed in 1976 by these famous railroads: Penn Central, Erie Lacjawanna, Jersey Central, Lehigh and Hudson River, Reading, and Lehigh Valley. And it was the bankruptcy in 1972 of Penn Central that led directly to the massive overhaul of US railroads by Congressional action in 1976, The Railroad Revitalization and Regulatory Refrom Act of 1976. It was from this action that modern railroads rebound to form the money making industry that is today's US railroad environment.

Footnote: On August 22, 1998, Norfolk Southern and CSX purchased 58% and 42% percent of Conrail stock, respectively, dividing the railroad between them. Each owner began operating their portion on June 1, 1999. In three jointly-owned "shared asset" areas, Conrail still exists as a local freight provider.

Task: Install EOT device

I purchased a neat replica of the modern era of railroading device called the End of Train (EOT) marker. This device on prototype trains took the place of the old Caboose car marking the end of a train. Actually what killed the icon of railroading - the Caboose - was not this device in and of itself, rather it was the modern age of computers. As locomotives became more and more sophisticated with computer technology - the job of the Brakeman became obsolete. Now computers in the loco could read out to the Engineer and control the brake pressure and release it without the need for the Brakeman to do this and/or control it. So, the rail car he rode in, the Caboose, also became obsolete and largely faded from modern railroads.

This EOT device was made by Ring Engineering and comes ready to install with its own replacement truck set w/33" metal wheels, circuit board and wired LED-powered flashing light attached to a metal knuckle-coupler. It draws power from the DCC master unit through the rails. Installation was a snap. At around $45 each, I just started with just this one, but plan on purchasing 4 or 5 more to add to the end of all my trains.

Task: Weather and Locos check out (Cont.)

I've owned a pair of Proto-2000 SD-60s for 5 years or so that have sat in their boxes awaiting the day a layout could be built. 1 in NS and 1 in Conrail colors. I ordered NCE DCC decoders customized by Tony's Train Exchange for correct install and operations in these models. Installation had a snag though, Life-like uses 1.5v bulbs that arent compatible with the DCC decoders. So I had to buy 14v bulbs from Circuitronics and replace the stock bulbs. Installation wasnt to bad overall.

I heavily weathered these units. First I airbrushed along the bottom and trucks with Floquil brown "Leather" paint. I had masked the wheels off while I painted the trucks - however some paint did get on the wheels. I cleaned this off with Acetone. Then I used a lot of dusting powders, mostly grimy black and brown, and a wash of black ink/rubbing alcohol.

Overall I am pleased with these two. Lots of good details were included with the Proto-2000 models.

These locos will be prementatly consisted with a new Athearn Genesis SD60M due out late April 2009. These new units look to be really nice. I have one pre-ordered from Standard Hobby online, NS#6778 . For around 175 dollars these units are sorta pricey. Athearn is promising all new recorded sounds. They are shipping with MRC DCC-Sound decoders. We will see if MRC has improved its act with their new sound decoders, because to this point they've had less than a stellar reputation.

Consist # will be 78.

Task: Weather and Locos check out

While construction of the actual wood benchwork and backdrop awaits the room being available, I have been weathering each locomotive and installing DCC decoders and/or DCC-Sound decoders as needed.

So far I have a Kato SD80MAC (EMD) in Norfolk Southern colors (#7204) which I installed ESU LokSound v3.5 DCC and Sound decoder. Installation was straight forward and the system sounds great. The decoder was purchased from Ulrich's hobby shop in California and they pre-programmed it with the correct SD80MAC sounds (air horn, etc). Weathering consisted of a some rust/grim on the trucks and a light grim dusting on the exhaust fans. This unit remains "pretty" for the most part as its my favorite loco. I installed the correct Multi-Unit (MU) hoses on front and back (these were purchase from Detials West online), painted them red and also painted all the step edges and hand rails yellow and then both gas tank covers and gauges red just like the prototype. I sealed the loco with a matte acrylic sealer. I also installed Kadee #58 couplers.

Next is a Kato SD70MAC (EMD) in Conrail colors (#4133) which I installed a MRC DCC-only decoder. Installation was also straight forward with no issues - simply remember to shield the decoder from all metal parts with black vinyl electrical tape. This unit will be permanently consisted with the NS #7204. MU consist #004. I weathered it heavier to show age and use with several dusts - grimy black, grey, and brown. I installed the correct Multi-Unit (MU) hoses on front and back (these were purchase from Details West online), painted them red and painted all step edges and hand rails white and again painted the gas tanks following the prototype. I sealed the loco with a matte acrylic sealer.

Task: Install good train room lights

Part of model trains looking good as they run around a layout is good lighting and that fact is often over looked imo. I installed a track light set that allows for custom configuration. Lowes had these lights on clearance so I picked them up, however I was 4 short - so went to Ebay.com and acquired those 4.

Overall pretty easy install. One corner piece for the track was in-op so had to take it back and exchange it. I am happy with the results.